Needle

A needle is a thin, pointed tool used in sewing to prick fabric and pull thread through. It is a metal rod with an eye (hole) at one end for threading and a second, pointed end for piercing the fabric.

There are several different types of needles available to suit a variety of different materials and stitches.

Applied

An appliqué is a decorative design made from pieces of fabric cut and sewn onto a fabric, held together by a very tight zigzag stitch all the way around.

Assembly

Stitching is the process of sewing together different pieces of fabric to form a garment or other textile item. This step involves preparing, aligning, and sewing the different parts according to a pattern or design.

Clean strip

A neckline tape or neckline bias is a strip of fabric placed on the neckline (most often on the back, sometimes all the way around) of a knitted garment (e.g., sweatshirt or t-shirt). It helps hide the visible overlock stitching and provides a clean and attractive finish. This technique can also be used on a woven project, a non-stretch fabric. However, this is less common, as woven garments are designed differently and do not necessarily require this finish.

Find our tutorial for installing a clean strip here .

Bib

A bib is a piece of fabric, often lined and sometimes laminated, tied around a baby's or toddler's neck to protect their clothing during mealtimes. It is designed to be easily washable and stain-resistant.

Build

This involves making temporary seams by hand in preparation for the hemming or assembly work later. Basting is done by sewing long stitches with a contrasting cotton thread. The threads are then removed after machine stitching; their sole purpose is to hold the pieces of fabric together during assembly.

Bias

Bias binding is a strip cut diagonally across the fabric, at a 45° angle to the straight grain. This strip has a certain elasticity; it can be used to cover raw edges (even curved ones) to reinforce them or create a clean finish.

You can find pre-made and pre-folded bias bindings in haberdashery stores. However, it is very easy to make your own and coordinate them with your fabric. Find our tutorials for Making a bias binding and Attaching a bias binding .

Edge to edge

Assembly of two pieces of fabric without overlapping, their edges touching exactly.

Bumblebee

Satin stitch is a dense, decorative embroidery stitch used to create raised borders or outlines. It is made by sewing several rows of closely spaced stitches, often used to accentuate embroidery designs or to finish the edges of fabrics.

Buttonhole

A buttonhole is a small slit generally made to finish a project. It is through the buttonhole that you will slip a button to close your project. Most sewing machines offer "buttonhole" programs, either in a single step if the machine is electronic, or in 4 steps on the others. You can also make a buttonhole by hand.

Ikatee explains how to do it in the tutorial " Making buttonholes ".

Tip: Remember to reinforce very fine fabric on the reverse side before embroidering a buttonhole; a fine iron-on fabric or a piece of organza will do the trick.

Brandenburg

Brandenburgs are decorative fasteners consisting of a strap and a button, often used on coats.

Fly

A fly is a trouser opening with a zipper or buttons, protected by a tab.

Brides

Tattings are small loops of embroidered thread or fabric used as fasteners for buttons or hooks on garments. They can be embroidered directly or added separately to create discreet, decorative fastenings. They help prevent holes in the fabric.

Embroidery

Embroidery is a textile decoration technique that involves sewing designs onto fabric using suitable threads. It can be done by hand or machine and is used to embellish clothing, accessories, and other textile items. Designs are created using various stitch and thread techniques.

Cashmere

Cashmere is a soft and lightweight textile fiber made from the hair of cashmere goats, primarily raised in Mongolia, China, and Nepal. This fiber is renowned for its warmth, lightness, and exceptional softness. Cashmere is often used to make sweaters, scarves, and blankets.

Can

The bobbin is a small spool of thread placed in the shuttle of a sewing machine. A sewing machine uses two threads: the spool thread (the thread that will be seen "above the fabric") and the bobbin thread (the thread "below"). The bobbin provides the lower thread. The bobbin thread is generally filled with the same thread as the spool thread; but it can also be filled with a contrasting thread if you are joining a fabric and a lining of different colors (in this case, put the bobbin thread in the color of the fabric that it will "cover"). Filling and threading the bobbin thread is done simply according to the instructions for each machine.

Tip: preferably use a slightly stretchy polyester "moss" thread for knitwear and lingerie.

To make smocking, put elastic smocking thread in the bobbin, keeping it taut when filling it; the elastic will be under tension and will better mark the smocking line.

Capuchins

Capuchins are small decorative or functional fabric tabs, placed on sleeve or pocket slits.

Tile

A check is a fabric pattern consisting of crossed lines forming squares or rectangles. The pattern can be printed or woven.

Warp and weft

All woven fabrics, made up of threads crossed perpendicularly: the warp (longitudinal) and the weft (transverse).

Cotton

Cotton is a natural fiber grown from the cotton plant. Widely used in the manufacture of textiles, it is valued for its comfort, durability, and ease of care.

Lay down the seam allowances

Pressing seam allowances together means ironing the seam allowances together on one side only.

Backstage

The casing is a strip of fabric added or folded into which a cord or elastic is inserted. It can be used to tighten the waist of pants or a skirt, for example. It is important to make the casing slightly wider than the elastic or cord. The latter will be inserted using a safety pin placed at the end and threaded along the entire length of the casing.

Sewing

Sewing is the joining of two or more pieces of fabric together using needles and thread, either by hand or machine. It is used to create or alter clothing, accessories, and other textile items. The term "sewing" encompasses all stages of designing, cutting, assembling, and finishing a textile item.

A seam is the line formed by joining two pieces of fabric together. It can be done in different ways (straight stitch, overlock stitch, zigzag stitch, etc.) and is used to join, finish, or reinforce pieces of fabric. Seams are fundamental elements in the structure and durability of a garment or textile item.

English seam

The French seam is a sewing technique that involves sewing the edges of the fabric twice to achieve a clean, durable, and perfect finish. First, the edges are sewn wrong sides together, then turned and sewn right sides together to hide the raw edges.

Straight seam

A straight seam, or straight stitch, is a simple, basic seam made with a sewing machine in a straight line. It is used to join pieces of fabric together firmly and evenly, often for basic seams and hems.

Felled seam

It is a sturdy, flat, closed seam often used for sewing pants and jeans.

The edges of the fabric are folded over and double-stitched to create a very strong and clean seam. The final seam is sturdy, perfect for areas subject to high stress.

Notch

Notching involves making small notches with scissors in the seam allowances of garment pieces. These cuts allow you to manage excess thickness, particularly at corners and curves, and above all, they help with proper seam positioning. This helps curves position better, and you avoid pulling fabrics and creating creases at necklines or armholes, for example.

Croquet

The croquet is a decorative braid in the shape of a zigzag.

Leather

Leather is treated, prepared, and tanned animal hide used to make clothing, shoes, bags, furniture, and other accessories. There are many types of leather, varying depending on the animal it comes from and the method of preparation. Valued for its durability, aesthetics, and comfort, it can be sewn by machine or by hand. However, it requires specialized needles and threads to ensure a strong and durable seam.

Thimble

Often overlooked, the thimble is a valuable ally for hand sewing! It protects your fingers and is especially useful for giving your needle momentum when working with thicker fabrics. There are two types:

dressmakers' thimbles, with a solid end. You will use them by pushing with the tip of your finger.

tailor's thimbles, used by tailors. The end is hollow, they look like rings. You use them by pushing with the side of your finger.

Seam ripper or seam ripper

The seam ripper (or seam ripper) allows, as its name suggests, to remove seams cleanly and efficiently. It is often equipped with a handle and a Y-shaped metal head. It slides across a seam and, by pushing from one end to the other, allows the seams to be undone.

Thinning

Trimming is reducing or beveling seam allowances in corners or angles to avoid excess thickness. To prevent fraying, it is recommended not to trim closer than 3 mm from the edge of the seam.

Lace

Lace is an openwork fabric without warp or weft, decorated with intricate patterns and usually made of cotton, silk, linen, or synthetic thread. Lace is often used to embellish clothing, lingerie, or accessories.

Lining

Lining is a fabric, often lighter than the main fabric, sewn inside a garment to improve comfort, appearance, and durability. Lining protects against wear and tear and sometimes the cold, creates structure to the garment, and allows for a more beautiful finish by hiding internal seams.

Draped

Drape is the way a fabric falls and folds when worn or hung. In sewing and fashion, drape refers to the visual effect and fluidity of a fabric when shaped around the body or used in a garment.

Straight grain & direction of fabrics

The straight grain is a term used when talking about the placement of pieces in relation to the direction of weaving or knitting. A woven fabric is, in fact, formed by crossing warp threads (stretched on the looms) with a weft thread (a shuttle that passes from one row to another by turning around and forming at the ends of each row a border called a "selvage". In the case of stitches knitted with needles (accumulation of loops of the same thread that form stitches, unlike the warp and weft fabric), the rows also follow one another and form a border or selvage.

When the grain line is indicated on a pattern, it must be placed parallel to the edge of the fabric. This is very important for the garment's drape and its long-lasting durability. If you don't cut a piece along the grain, the garment may stretch during the first wash, be uncomfortable, and fit poorly on the body.

However, you can achieve special effects by cutting across the width of the fabric or along the bias. In this case, this will be indicated on the pattern.

Elastic

Elastic is a material or device capable of stretching and returning to its original shape after being stretched. In sewing, it is often used to create adjustments in clothing, such as waists or cuffs, allowing pieces to fit comfortably against the body. Elastics can be incorporated into seams or used as decorative bands. They help give clothing flexibility and a better fit.

Embu

The overhang is an excess of fabric deliberately integrated into the assembly to create volume or facilitate ease.

Armhole

The armhole is the opening of the sleeve that will be attached to the body. It is the part of the garment that surrounds the armpit and allows for the insertion of the arm. The shape and size of the armhole influence the comfort and fit of the garment, particularly the freedom of movement in the arms. There is a distinction between the armhole and the armhole. The armhole is the opening in the pieces that form the body where you will slip your arm. The armhole and the armhole will be assembled during sewing.

Yoke

A yoke is a piece of fabric added to a garment to alter its shape, design, or comfort. It is typically used to reinforce certain areas, introduce decorative details, or improve fit. Yokes can be incorporated into various parts of a garment, such as the shoulders, sleeves, or back, and are often used to create visual effects or structure the garment.

Neck

The neckline is the part of the garment that surrounds the neck.

Place

The right side of a fabric is the visible side of the fabric, the one that will be on the outside of the garment.

Right side to right side or E/E

Placing pieces right sides together is the instruction you'll likely read most in sewing. It involves placing the right side of fabric 1 on top of the right side of fabric 2 that you want to join together.

Fit

Shapes are interior pieces that follow the contours of a neckline or armhole, for a clean finish.

Pocket entry

Pocket entrances are the openings through which you slip your hand into a pocket.

Crotch

The inseam is the measurement that corresponds to the distance between the lower back and the lower front of a pair of pants, passing between the legs. It is also the term used to refer to the part of the garment that covers this area.

Interfacing

Interfacing is a material used to reinforce and structure certain areas of a garment. Interfacing is often iron-on.

Interfacing or iron-on

Interfacing, or heat-bonding, is used to stiffen parts of items. It consists of hot-gluing (with an iron without steam) the pre-coated side of a canvas (more or less fine depending on the support and the desired rigidity) onto the fabric to be reinforced; for example, a button placket of a fine fabric or the back of a buttonhole, or a collar stand.

Armhole

The armhole is the counterpart of the armhole, the opening in the body intended to be assembled to the sleeve.

Reverse or Env

The reverse side is the inside of the fabric, not visible once the garment is finished.

Wrong side to wrong side or R/R

Unlike "right sides together," wrong sides together simply means that the inner sides of the fabrics should be placed against each other. This is often used when sewing linings or joining pieces where the seams need to be hidden inside the garment or textile project.

Pin

Pinning is temporarily securing pieces of fabric together with pins before sewing.

Pins

Pins are small metal objects with a fine point and a head that are used to hold two pieces of fabric together before sewing. They are used as a temporary fastener, but they can also be used to secure patterns, adjust seams, and align edges.

Fabric

Fabric is a generic term for a fabric or textile material used in the manufacture of clothing and other items. It can vary in texture, composition, and weight.

Comfort slot

A slit is an opening, usually located in a garment such as a skirt or pants, designed to provide greater comfort and freedom of movement. It allows the garment to adapt more easily to body movements by providing extra space in specific areas.

Zipper

A zipper, or zip, is a device consisting of two strips of fabric with teeth and a slider that opens and closes to join or separate parts of a garment or accessory. It allows for quick opening and precise adjustment and is commonly used in clothing, bags, and accessories.

Thread

Thread is a strand of textile fiber used to join fabrics together during sewing. It can be made from a variety of materials, such as polyester, cotton, or silk, and is available in different thicknesses and colors to suit the specific needs of the sewing project. The most commonly used thread is polyester, which is suitable for all fabrics. However, depending on the fabric and the desired effect, you may need to purchase additional threads. To begin, a good-quality black and white thread will suffice.

Find our yarn collection here .

Foam thread

Moss thread is a slightly stretchy and soft thread, used particularly for lingerie or swimwear. It is used in the loopers of the overlocker, or in the bobbin of the sewing machine.

Finishes

Finishing touches are a set of techniques that allow you to achieve a clean and professional result.

Pocket bottom

The pocket bottom is the inner part of a pocket, often made of lighter fabric.

Fork

The crotch is the part of the pants that forms the crotch.

Gathers, ambushes

Gathers are widely used in children's fashion, especially for girls. They can be used to create pleats or add volume to a garment, or even add ruffles.

There are also invisible ease gathers; these are used to sew together pieces of slightly different lengths and help to absorb the difference in a nearly invisible way (the gathers are not marked). This type of gather is therefore useful for distributing the excess material (the excess material linked to the different lengths) on the sleeve head of the armholes in particular.

Gathering can be done by hand or with a sewing machine. Check out our video tutorial: How to make gathers .

Glaze

Glazing a seam is holding a piece flat with a long seam or discreet understitching.

Pocket watch

A gusset is a small piece of fabric inserted into a seam to provide more freedom of movement or reinforce the structure of a garment. It is often used in areas such as underarms or crotches to improve comfort and fit.

Guipure

Guipure is a thick, textured lace with beautiful patterns. Unlike lace, it is made on an embroidery frame on a temporary backing that is dissolved to leave only the raised patterns.

Non-woven - non-woven

A non-woven or non-woven fabric is a fabric created from a compression of fibers with a binder.

Crop

A jabot is a fabric ornament, often lace or ruffles, attached to the front of a garment, typically a shirt or blouse. It adds an elegant decorative touch and is often used in formal or historical clothing.

Jersey

Jersey is a technique for making knitted fabrics; it is recognized by the knit stitches forming "V"s and the purl stitches forming "bridges", knitted with more or less thick yarns. It is knitted in stockinette stitch.

It can be knitted with yarns made of natural fibers (cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, etc.), artificial fibers (viscose, tencel, etc.), synthetic fibers (polyester, elastane, etc.) or with a mixture of these fibers (cotton polyester, cotton viscose, cotton elastane, etc.).

Jersey is inherently stretchy; this quality varies depending on the type of fiber used and the tension of the stitches formed. A jersey with soft stitches and elastane is particularly stretchy. It is ideal for sewing T-shirts, dresses, leggings, pajamas, underwear, and bodysuits. We recommend it for baby and children's clothing.

Boiled wool

Boiled wool is a wool fabric that has been boiled and felted to make it dense and durable. This process gives it a thick texture and matte finish, ideal for jackets, coats, and winter accessories.

Width

Width is the width of a fabric, measured from edge to edge, between the two selvedges. It is important for planning and cutting pieces in the manufacture of clothing and other textile items. Common widths generally range from 130 cm to 150 cm, depending on the type of fabric.

The width should not be neglected since it determines the quantity of fabric needed to complete a project.

Laminette

Laminette is a thin strip of rubber or elastic used to hold or reinforce certain areas (straps, necklines).

Layette

Layette refers to all the clothing and accessories intended for infants, generally aged between zero and a few months. It is a term commonly used for outfits prepared for the arrival of a newborn.

Liberty

Liberty refers to a type of lightweight fabric with floral or graphic patterns, often associated with the British brand Liberty of London. These fabrics, usually made of cotton, are known for their distinctive, colorful, and elegant prints. The term "Liberty" is also used to refer to the specific patterns created by this brand, which are prized for their quality and timeless style in clothing and accessories.

Linen

Linen is a natural textile fiber derived from the flax plant, prized for its strength, freshness, and comfort. It's ideal for sewing beautiful summer pieces like flowing dresses, blouses, pants, and skirts.

Edge

The selvedge is the edge of the fabric, usually along the sides of the roll, which is woven to prevent fraying. It is often stronger and more structured than the rest of the fabric. It helps determine the grain.

Sewing machine

A sewing machine is a mechanical, electrical, or computerized device that allows pieces of fabric to be joined together using a needle and thread. It automates the sewing process, allowing for consistent stitches to be created more quickly than hand sewing. There are a variety of stitches that can be achieved with a sewing machine; some are directly adjustable on your machine, while others require a special presser foot.

Mesh

Mesh is a knitted fabric (jersey, etc.) with natural elasticity.

Cuff

The cuff is the fitted and often decorative part at the end of a shirt, jacket, or coat sleeve. It can be closed with buttons and is used to adjust the sleeve to the wrist.

Martingale

A martingale is a strip of fabric or belt attached to the back of a coat, jacket, or trench coat, used to adjust the waist or add a stylish element. It can be decorative or functional, with buttons or buckles.

Fleece

Fleece is a thick, soft fabric, usually made of cotton or synthetic fibers, with a slightly fuzzy texture. It is used for reinforcement and quilting.

Muslin

Muslin is a fine, light-colored fabric. Produced from carded cotton and originating in the city of Dhaka, muslin is ideal for scarves, dresses, blouses, and shirts. Muslin is a lightweight, sheer fabric, often made of cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers. It is characterized by its delicate, flowing texture, making it ideal for summer wear, elegant blouses, dresses, and accessories.

Rib

A pintuck is a visible strip of fabric or stitching line that creates a raised or structured effect in a garment. It is often used to add detail and shape to garments, such as in trousers or jackets, where it can reinforce seams or create decorative lines. Pintucks can also be incorporated to improve the cut or fit of a garment.

Nylon

Nylon is a highly durable synthetic fiber used in a variety of fabrics. It is known for its durability, lightweight, and resistance to water and abrasion. Nylon is often used for sportswear, outdoor gear, and technical textiles.

Eyelet

An eyelet is a small metal or plastic part inserted into a hole in a fabric to reinforce and stabilize the passage of cords, laces, or threads. They are often used in clothing such as shoes, jackets, and bags.

Wadding

Wadding is a fleecy material used as padding in clothing, accessories, and bedding. Usually made of synthetic or natural fibers, it is a thick layer of fibers bonded together and sewn between two layers of fabric to add warmth, comfort, and structure. Wadding is commonly used in jackets, duvets, and cushions to provide thermal insulation and loft.

Hem

A hem is the folding and securing of the bottom edge of a fabric to prevent fraying and create a clean finish. It is achieved by folding the edge of the fabric inward and sewing it in place. Hems can vary in width and finishing technique depending on the type of garment and the desired effect.

Invisible hem

A blind hem is a sewing technique that allows you to create a hem without the stitches being visible on the right side of the fabric. This is usually done using a blind stitch by hand or a special sewing machine foot.

Open the seams with an iron

Ironing seams open means ironing the seam allowances open on each side.

Facing

A facing is a piece of fabric used to reinforce and finish the inside edges of a garment, such as necklines, armholes, and cuffs. It is often a near-exact copy of an outer piece, forming a kind of lining that neatly finishes edges and openings. It is sewn to the inside of the garment and often folded or pressed to give a clean, crisp finish. Facing helps maintain the garment's shape, prevents fraying of edges, and can also provide additional support for closures and embellishments. It may be interfaced for reinforcement.

Piping

Piping is a small cord surrounded by bias or decorative ribbon. It is a finishing element, it is decorative and is used for accessories, clothing or furnishings. It is used to create pretty edges or to decorate the junction of two pieces of fabric. The ribbon is cut on the bias which makes it more elastic and therefore better able to adapt to the shape of the fabric on which it is affixed. The piping is inserted between two pieces of fabric.
Find our tutorial for applying piping .

Pattemouille

A damp cloth is a damp cloth (often cotton canvas) placed between the iron and the fabric to prevent burning or shining the fabric.

Sewing pattern

A sewing pattern is a full-size design that serves as a guide for cutting and assembling the fabric pieces needed to create a garment or accessory. This pattern, usually available in paper or digital format, contains all the essential information for your textile project, including at least one piece for the front and one for the back.

At Ikatee, we offer a wide range of patterns for women, children, and babies, available in paper format to receive by mail or in digital format to download directly from our website.

Button placket

A button placket is a strip of fabric sewn onto the edge of a garment to accommodate buttons and buttonholes. It fastens and adjusts the garment, providing a neat and functional finish on shirts, blouses, jackets, and other similar items.

Presser foot or presser foot

On a sewing machine, the presser foot is the part that holds your fabric flat while sewing. It also allows the needle to pass through it for stitching, edging, or overlocking. There are several types, depending on your fabric and project. Generally speaking, the presser foot that came with your machine will be the perfect fit.

Plastic clips

Plastic clips, often used in sewing, are small plastic fastening tools that hold fabrics together without damaging them. They are particularly useful for delicate fabrics, thick materials, or when precise fastening is required. They offer a practical alternative to pins, avoiding holes or marks on the fabric.

Chest clip

Chest darts are specific darts placed between the chest and the side, to adjust the garment to the shape of the body on women's clothing.

Pliers

Darts are pleats sewn to adjust a garment to the shape of the body.

To prick

To sew a stitch by hand or machine using the stitch of your choice (straight stitch, zigzag stitch). To sew a line of stitches with a sewing machine or by hand. This includes sewing pieces of fabric together, making decorative or utilitarian stitching, and securing different parts of a garment or accessory. Stitching can also refer to the act of temporarily holding pieces together with pins before permanently sewing them.

Sectional plan

A cutting plan is a diagram showing how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting.

Breastplate

A bib is a piece of fabric, often rigid or reinforced, placed on the front of a garment to provide support and structure. It is commonly used in shirts, blouses, and jackets to maintain shape and add a neat appearance, especially around the collar or chest.

Folds

In sewing, pleats are folds in fabric created to add volume or adjust the shape of a garment. They can be made temporarily by ironing or permanently by sewing. Pleats are used in a variety of garments, such as skirts, pants, and sleeves, for aesthetic or functional effects.

Hollow pleats

Box pleats are pleats formed by two inward folds of fabric creating a decorative hollow.

Plumetis

Plumetis is a lightweight, sheer fabric, often made of cotton or voile, decorated with small raised patterns, usually in the form of embroidered stitches. It is used primarily for delicate garments such as dresses and blouses.

Point

In sewing, a "stitch" refers to the way the thread is sewn onto the fabric. There are different types of stitches, each with a specific function: the straight stitch for basic seams, the zigzag stitch for finishes and stretch fabrics, and the overlock stitch for edges. The choice of stitch depends on the fabric being used and the desired effect.

Breakpoint

A backstitch is a seam of a few stitches back to secure a seam at the beginning and end.

Straight stitch

The straight stitch is the main stitch used in sewing. The stitches follow one another in a straight or curved line. It is used to join pieces of fabric, create main seams, and make hems.

Breakpoint

The backstitch is necessary at the beginning and end of the seam to prevent the seam from unraveling. First, make a few stitches forward, then a few stitches backward using the "back" button on the machine; this is done at the beginning and end.

Elastic or stretch stitch

Some sewing machines offer stretch stitch options, which are useful for working with stretchy fabrics. These are essential for fitted garments, as they prevent tears and preserve the fabric's shape after stretching.

Slip stitch

Slip stitches are hand-stitched stitches. They are used to close openings, hems, or bias tape by creating a nearly invisible seam, by stitching first on one edge and then on the opposite edge. They provide a neat finish and avoid the need for overly visible topstitching on a machine.

Find our tutorial for making slipped stitches .

Invisible point

Blind stitching is a sewing technique used to secure hems or join pieces of fabric together without the stitches being visible on the right side of the fabric.

Wrist

The cuff is the part of the garment that surrounds the wearer's wrist, often located at the end of the sleeves of a shirt, coat, or sweater.

Polar

Fleece is a soft, warm, and lightweight synthetic fabric, often made of polyester. Ideal for winter clothing such as jackets, sweaters, and blankets, it is prized for its ability to retain heat.

Poplin

Poplin is a lightweight, durable fabric characterized by a tight weave and a smooth texture. Made from cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers, it is often used to make shirts, dresses, and blouses. Poplin is distinguished by its slightly shiny appearance and ability to hold its shape well, making it a popular choice for garments requiring a clean, structured drape.

Preform

Preforming is giving a piece its final shape in advance, by ironing or manipulation.

Shorten

In sewing, shortening is the process of reducing the length of a garment or piece of fabric. This can be done by cutting off the excess fabric and then re-hemming or finishing it to fit the desired length.

To Ras

In sewing, "flush" means cutting or sewing very close to the edge of the fabric, so that there is virtually no space between the edge and the stitching or cutting line. This allows for a clean, discreet finish.

Coverer

A coverstitch machine is a specific machine for making hems on stretch fabrics with professional finishes.

Reduce seam allowance

Reducing a seam allowance means reducing the width of the margin after sewing to limit excess thickness.

Ironing

Ironing is one of the most important steps in successful sewing! It involves flattening and smoothing out the fabric using a hot iron. Ironing is often used before assembly to prepare the fabric pieces or after tailoring.

Landmarks

Guides are marks on pattern pieces or fabric to guide assembly.

Voltage adjustment

Tension adjustment is the adjustment of the tension of the upper and bobbin threads on a sewing machine. Properly adjusted tension ensures even stitches and prevents fabric from puckering or bunching, thus ensuring better quality seams.

Reverse

The lapel is the turned-back part of a garment, such as a jacket or coat, often located at the collar or cuffs. It is a piece of fabric folded outward.

Ribbon

Ribbon is a strip of fabric, usually narrow and flexible, used in sewing for various decorative or functional purposes. It can be made of different materials, such as silk, satin, cotton, or polyester. Ribbon is often used to create elegant finishes, such as belts, bows, or trim. It can also be used to reinforce seams or add decorative details to clothing and accessories.

Measuring tape - tape measure

A tape measure is a flexible measuring tool used in sewing. It allows you to accurately measure flat surfaces, curves, and contours such as waist circumference or sleeve length. Essential for taking body measurements and adjusting patterns, it ensures the correct fit of pieces in a sewing project.

Strap

Webbing is a strip of strong material used to hold, support, or reinforce objects. It is commonly used for belts, shoulder straps, and bag handles. 

Satin

Satin is a fabric with a smooth, shiny finish, characterized by its tight weave that creates a sheen on one side of the fabric and a matte texture on the other. It is ideal for sewing evening dresses, blouses, skirts, and accessories.

Seersucker

Seersucker is a lightweight, textured fabric, usually made of cotton, characterized by its wavy or crinkled folds created by a special weave. These folds allow the fabric to sit slightly away from the skin, providing good ventilation and increased comfort in warm weather. Seersucker is often used for summer clothing, such as shirts, pants, and suits, due to its ability to stay cool and not wrinkle easily.

Smocking

Smocking is a decorative embroidery stitch used to gather a garment. It creates elastic pleats that add texture and help adjust the garment to the body.

Silk

Silk is a natural fiber derived from silkworms, prized for its softness and shine. It is used in elegant fabrics such as dresses and scarves.

Understitch

Understitching is stitching a facing or lining with the seam allowances close to the seam to hold it on the wrong side.

Overcasting

To overcast a piece of fabric means to sew a thread around the edges of the fabric to prevent it from fraying or rolling. Overcasting is achieved by sewing a zigzag stitch along the edge.

Overlock

Overlocking involves joining two pieces of fabric edge to edge with an overlock stitch. The overlock stitch is done using a serger (a special machine that overlocks and trims edges simultaneously). Like overcasting, overlocking creates clean finishes and allows edges to hold up better over time, which positively impacts the durability of your work.

Topstitching

Topstitching is a visible stitching on the outside of the work. It is a decorative and functional seam, generally made close to a seam or the edge of your piece (about 2mm). It can be used to reinforce seams, hold hems in place, decorate a border line or flatten a stitch.

Taffeta

Taffeta is a lightweight, stiff fabric, often made of silk or synthetic fibers, with a smooth, lustrous finish. It is used for formal wear, evening gowns, and wedding dresses because of its structured drape and shine.

Tartan

Tartan is a fabric pattern characterized by checks or crossed stripes of different colors. Traditionally associated with Scottish kilts, it is often used for clothing and accessories made of wool or flannel fabric.

Sleeve head

The sleeve cap is the rounded upper part of the sleeve that joins the armhole at the shoulder seam. It can be gathered, pleated, or shaped to shape the structure, fit, and drape of the garment.

Iron-on

Iron-on is a material with an adhesive coating that bonds to fabric when heated with an iron. It is used to reinforce, repair, or stabilize specific areas of clothing or fabrics.

Fabric

Fabric is a textile material made by interlacing or knitting threads or fibers. It serves as a base for making clothing, accessories, and household items, and can be made from a variety of materials such as cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic fibers.

Knitting

Knitting is a fabric made by interlacing yarns using stitches, creating a soft, stretchy texture. Unlike weaving, knitting is generally more elastic and comfortable. All "knit" fabrics are knitted fabrics.

Tulle

Tulle is a lightweight, sheer, and fine fabric, usually made of polyester, nylon, or silk. It is often used for evening wear, wedding dresses, veils, and decorations due to its airy texture and ability to add lightness and volume.

Seam allowances (or margins)

Seam allowances are excess material around the edges of the pieces. These margins are provided during cutting to allow for assembly seams between the pattern pieces. They are included on all Ikatee patterns and are generally 0.7cm and 3cm at the hems unless otherwise specified.

Velcro

Velcro is a registered trademark for a fastener system consisting of two strips of fabric, one with hooks and the other with loops, which fasten when pressed together. Velcro is used to fasten clothing, shoes, and other accessories. It's an alternative to buttons and is often easier for children to use.

Velvet

Velvet is a thick, soft fabric made of two overlapping warps with a top side formed of tightly piled upright and a back side cut short.

Corduroy

Corduroy is a type of velvet characterized by vertical ribs or striations. It is a cotton-based fabric with multiple fibers woven into the main fabric to form the vertical ridges. It is ideal for sewing pants, jackets, or accessories.

Viscose

Viscose is a synthetic textile fiber made from plant cellulose. It mimics the look and feel of silk, with good fluidity and a soft hand, while being more economical. Used for garments such as dresses, blouses, and pants, it offers good drapability and shine.

Veiling

Voile is a lightweight, sheer fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, or polyester, used primarily for curtains. It filters light while still providing some privacy.

Flying

A ruffle is a gathered or pleated strip of fabric attached to the edge of a garment. These are finishes that provide a clean and aesthetically pleasing finish. Ruffles are commonly used on skirts, dresses, blouses, and sleeves.

Zigzag

The zigzag stitch is a stitch made by a sewing machine, forming a zigzag line of stitches. It is used for sewing stretchy fabrics and applying appliqués or decorations. It can also be used as an alternative to the overlock stitch to prevent fabric from buckling or fraying at the edges.

Zip

Zippers, also called zips or sliders, are essential fastening devices in the sewing and ready-to-wear industries. A zipper consists of two strips of fabric, each equipped with interposed teeth that engage with a sliding slider. There are several types of zippers, including separable and fixed zippers, metal, plastic, etc. A zipper allows you to open or close a textile item and connect two pieces of fabric together.