How to choose your size and adapt a sewing pattern to your body shape and height

When you start sewing clothes, choosing the right size and adapting the pattern to your body shape are essential steps to achieve a perfect result and tailor-made sewing. Ikatee women's patterns are available in two size ranges: from 34 to 46 and from 32 to 52, corresponding to ready-to-wear sizes. However, we strongly recommend that you take your measurements and compare them to those in our table, as there may be differences with store sizes.

1. How to choose the right pattern size?

Take your measurements correctly

Before choosing your pattern size, it is essential to take your measurements with a tape measure:

• Height : you must be straight and measure from head to toe, as with a height chart.
• Chest : Measure around the fullest part of your chest, usually midway between your shoulder blades.
• Waist : Measure at the smallest point.
• Hip size : measure at the widest point of the hips.

Take your measurements properly (without sucking in your stomach, or in the morning on an empty stomach) while breathing normally.

Then compare these measurements to the size chart in the pattern and choose your size accordingly. Choose the size closest to your measurements.

Special case: between two sizes

It often happens that your measurements correspond to more than one size. In this case, here are some rules to follow:

• For pants or bottoms, the hip measurement is the main measurement.
• For a blouse or top, the chest measurement is the main measurement.
• For dresses, bust and hip measurements are the most important. The final choice depends on the model.
• For a dress that is fitted at the chest and loose at the hips, choose your size based on your chest measurement .
• For a dress that fits the hips and is looser at the top, choose the hip measurement .

• For a loose model:
• If you prefer a fitted effect, choose the smaller size .
• For a more oversized effect, take the larger size .

If in doubt, it is best to make a canvas with an inexpensive fabric but with a similar drape in order to test the size choice and the final result.

Compare with a commercial garment

We include a measurement chart for the finished product in our patterns. These measurements take into account the ease needed for a garment's comfort and style. This allows you to compare it with a garment in your wardrobe to ensure the final result. For example, if you want a "loose" result, it may be necessary to choose a size larger than your usual size. Comparing a garment with the measurements in the finished chart allows you to anticipate the result and plan ahead.

2. Adapt the pattern to your stature

The patterns are designed for a height of 165 cm . If you are shorter or taller, it is necessary to adjust the length of the pattern so that it fits correctly. The values ​​to add or deduct are given in most of our patterns. If this is not the case, here are standard values ​​that can be applied to most patterns.

Shorten a pattern

1. Place the pattern pieces on a flat surface and align them with each other. To align them, place the pattern pieces following the pattern given in the tutorial, along a straight line, and ensure that the grain lines of the pieces are perpendicular to it.
2. Draw a line perpendicular to the straight grain at the location indicated on the pattern. It is important that this is in the same place on all pieces . It is best to draw lines along straight areas and avoid curves as much as possible.
3. Draw a second parallel line below, at a distance corresponding to the value to be removed (refer to the pattern table).
4. Carefully fold the paper, overlapping the two drawn lines, making sure that the grain remains aligned.
5. Tape or glue the fold to hold the modification in place.
6. Trace the outline of the pattern to align the cutting lines. If necessary, soften the curves.

Extend a pattern

1. Place the pattern pieces on a flat surface and align them with each other. To align them, place the pattern pieces following the pattern given in the tutorial, along a straight line, and ensure that the grain lines of the pieces are perpendicular to it.
2. Draw a line perpendicular to the straight grain at the location indicated on the pattern. It is important that this is in the same place on all pieces . It is best to draw lines along straight areas and avoid curves as much as possible.
3. Cut along this line to separate the piece into two parts.
4. Prepare a strip of paper of the width corresponding to the desired adjustment (see pattern table).
5. Glue the strip of paper between the two parts of the pattern, making sure that the grain remains aligned.
6. Trace the outline of the pattern, seamlessly connecting the edges of the piece and adjusting the curves if necessary.

And there you have it, you have adapted the pattern to your height!

3. Adapt the pattern to your body shape

If your measurements vary between several sizes, it is possible to adapt the pattern to fit your body shape precisely. This still requires a little attention to detail and precision, and above all, a bit of sewing experience. You also shouldn't go overboard to respect the cut of the garment. For example, grading between three sizes is rarely done.

Practical case: adjusting pants between two sizes

If you are a size 42 at the waist and a size 40 at the hips, here is how to grade between two sizes :

1. Copy the pattern in size 40 from the bottom to the hips.
2. From the hips, gradually catch up with the lines of the 42 up to the waist.
3. Copy the belt pieces into 42.
4. Make a toile to test the fit before cutting the final fabric.

Practical case: adjusting a blouse between two sizes

If you are a 34 waist and a 36 chest, here is how to grade between two sizes :

1. Copy the pattern in size 36 from the top to the chest.
2. From the chest, gradually catch up with the lines of the 34 up to the waist.
3. Copy the sleeve and collar pieces in size 36.
4. Make a toile to test the fit before cutting the final fabric.

Testing and adjusting a sewing pattern with a toile

Once all these modifications have been made to the paper pattern, it may be necessary to make a toile to check the fit of the garment. Use an inexpensive fabric with a drape similar to your final fabric.

1. Check that the changes made are correct .
2. If not, make any adjustments directly on the canvas by marking the changes.
3. Transfer these changes to the pattern.
4. If the changes are significant, it may be necessary to make a second toile before cutting into the final fabric.

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Choosing the right size and adapting a pattern to your body shape are essential steps in creating a comfortable, custom-made garment. By taking the time to take your measurements, adjusting the pattern to your height, and making a test toile, you maximize your chances of succeeding in your sewing project. By sewing, you will also get to know your body and its specificities better, and you will be able to automatically make certain adjustments.