How to lay interlining?

In this new tutorial, I come back to a key step in your sewing project: interfacing.

What is interfacing?

The interlining is a textile layer that is affixed to the back of the fabric. To interline is therefore to reinforce a piece that will need it, often because it will be very stressed (fitting pressures) or because it will be subject to particular tension. You may also want to give more hold to a part of the garment (a collar for example).

Discover all our tips and advice in video!

The different types of interlining

There are two main families of interlining: the fusible ones, which are fixed with the heat of the iron, and the non-fusible ones .

In iron-on patches, care should be taken to differentiate between:

Woven fabrics: which function like a fabric, with intersecting warp and weft threads. They will follow the movement of the piece, structure it, allowing it to follow natural folds.

Knitwear: perfect for knits, such as jersey, because they preserve all the qualities of elasticity of the material.

Non-wovens: made up of bonded fibers, they tend to freeze the fabric and are therefore to be avoided for clothing, but will be suitable for accessory projects not subject to movement.

Fleeces: very useful for giving thickness, softness and hold to a project, and really ideal for all quilting operations.

The double-sided: which will be used to make transfers and create badges.

There are also non-iron-on interlinings, which are sewn, often used for materials that fear the heat of the iron. Note that it is not compulsory to use an interlining as such: an “interlining” (a layer of poplin or percale type fabric) may also be suitable.

Some general tips for interfacing

To ensure that your covering is successful, here are some tips to know:

I advise you first of all to choose a finer interfacing than the main fabric, in order to preserve its flexibility.

Be sure to place your pieces in line with the stabilizer, as you would with your main fabric.

Unless otherwise stated in the pattern, do not hesitate to cut your interfacing leaving a margin all around. Thus, even if the interfacing moves slightly when ironing, your piece of fabric will still be well covered.

Finally, make sure you have ironed the piece to be ironed on before interfacing it, so that it is perfectly ready.

How to iron on interlining?

First of all, always remember to protect your ironing board and your iron, by working between two layers of parchment paper for example.

To begin with, we place our piece of fabric, wrong side facing us, then we place our interlining, the sticky part, against the fabric. Finally, you apply your iron for a few seconds (be careful, the steam must be turned off!), then you move it without making it slip (which would risk moving the covering), but by lifting it and positioning it at side, until the entire surface has been covered. The part is then left to cool completely before handling it. It's very simple after all!

Happy sewing! And see you soon at ikatee.

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