Sew a zipper with perfect finishes

How to achieve beautiful finishes on a zipper: a complete guide for a neat finish

A careful finish on a zipper can transform your project: a well-finished zipper will enhance the quality of your project. Whether you're making a bag, a pencil case, or a pouch, these techniques add a professional touch while camouflaging small gaps at the ends without teeth.

How do you finish the top of a zipper? How do you stop a zipper properly? Follow our step-by-step guide to discover three methods suitable for different types of fabrics and projects.

Why add a finish to a zip?

Zippers often get caught in the seams at the ends. However, these seams sometimes leave small gaps without teeth. These gaps are useful for avoiding excess thickness and making it easier to slide the zipper through, but can be unsightly. Adding a finish allows you to:

- Camouflage these spaces for a uniform finish.
- Facilitate assembly by avoiding annoying excess thickness.
- Extend the zipper if it is slightly too short for your project.

The 3 methods for finishing a zipper

Method for thick fabrics:

This method is ideal for thick fabrics, to minimize excess thickness.
1. Cut out the rectangle : take a rectangle the width of the zip and the desired length + 1 cm.
2. Prepare the rectangle : make a 1 cm indentation on one of the lengths using an iron.
3. Position on the zip : place the back of the rectangle on the right side of the zip, leaving it protruding from the stop ring or not, depending on your preferences.
4. Temporarily secure : Pin or hand baste to prevent the rectangle from moving while sewing.
5. Assemble to project : Sew according to the pattern instructions.

You get a neat finish that hides gaps without teeth, perfect for thick fabrics like canvas.

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Method for fraying fabrics:

This method is ideal for fabrics that fray, the raw edges will be caught in the various seams, and will not be damaged.
1. Cut out the rectangle: prepare a rectangle the width of the zip and the desired length x2.
2. Fold and position: Fold the rectangle in half, right sides together, then place it on the right side of the zipper.
3. Build the sides: temporarily secure by hand or machine.
4. Assemble to project: Follow the pattern instructions to sew the zipper to the rest of your project.

You get a really clean finish on the right side, the raw edges are enclosed in the seams, ensuring a durable and neat finish.

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Method for a perfect result on the right side and wrong side:

For a flawless finish on both sides of your project, this more elaborate technique is the most suitable. It involves an additional step, but it's not very complicated!

1. Cut out two rectangles: one from the outer fabric and one from the lining. For the size of the two rectangles, take the width of the zipper and the desired length + 1 cm.
2. Draw the seam line: mark a line 1 cm from the edge on each rectangle.
3. Assemble the rectangles: Place them on either side of the zipper, right sides together, aligning the seam line with the stop ring. The seam allowance is placed on the stop ring.
4. Sew the rectangles: stitch on the seam line to sandwich the zipper.
5. Turn and iron: Turn the rectangles right side out, iron and secure if necessary.

You get a perfect finish, on both sides of the zip, on the right side and the wrong side.

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Our tip to avoid bumps at the end of the zip when sewing

It's sometimes tempting to open your zipper to sew the two braids together as closely as possible at the end without a stop ring. In reality, we don't recommend sewing this way.

When pinning the finishing piece to an open end of the zipper:
- Keep the zipper closed when pinning to avoid shifting.
- Open the zip to sew , then close it after assembly for natural alignment of the rings.

You will get a bump-free seam and a flawless finish.

With these three methods, you can adapt your finishes to any project, whether they use thick or thin fabrics. A beautiful zipper finish guarantees a clean, high-quality result.
Remember: Each method is suited to specific situations, so experiment and find the one that works best for your creation.

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Our tips for building your zip pieces:

You can sew your pieces with a zipper, by hand or with a sewing machine.

By hand:
1. Take a thread of a contrasting color
2. Thread the thread onto a needle
3. Make large slip stitches by hand, leaving a long tail at the beginning and end of the seam.
4. Assemble the zip as shown on the pattern
5. If the basting threads are visible once the zipper is assembled, remove them using a seam ripper or small scissors.

On the sewing machine:
1. Lengthen the stitch
2. Sew with a straight stitch, without going back and forth at the beginning and end of the seam.
3. Decrease the stitch length to return to your basic settings
4. Assemble the zip as shown on the pattern
5. If the basting threads are visible once the zipper is assembled, remove them using a seam ripper or small scissors.

Both of these techniques can be used for the various assemblies we offer to create beautiful zipper finishes. It's up to you to decide which one you find most appropriate and easiest, depending on your fabric, project, sewing machine, and sewing skills!

Want to go further? Check out our technical videos to learn how to shorten a zipper , or how to install a slider on a zip by the meter . Happy sewing!

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