How to work the edges of fur-backed fabrics: techniques and tips

You want to make a sleeveless vest or an ultra-cozy coat with a material already lined with faux fur; but you don't know how to sew the edges of these fabrics... Don't panic! In this video tutorial, find all our tips, techniques and examples to master the techniques of finishing edges, accessible to beginners.

What is a sherpa or faux fur backed fabric?

Fabrics with fur backings are generally laminated materials. Laminating allows different layers of materials to be joined: textile on textile or textile on foam, for example. This is a method that allows you to take advantage of each layer and create a 2-in-1 fabric. There is the outer fabric and the inner material, which forms a lining. Fur-backed materials will therefore have a warm lining; they are perfect for sewing jackets, thick overshirts, or winter vests, and you don't need to line them.

You will find different qualities of fabrics already laminated with faux fur on the market:

• suedes lined with sheepskin or faux fur (fake sheepskin style).
• corduroys lined with sheepskin or faux fur .
• denims lined with sheep sherpa .

Both the upper and lower fabrics may or may not fray at the selvages. Therefore, it is important to identify the qualities of each layer to adapt the selvage sewing technique.

Materials that do not move at the edges when used after cutting:

- suede
- the sheep-like terry sherpa

Materials that fray at the edges after cutting:

Finishing selvedges that won't fray? It's quick and easy!

This is the simplest and quickest case: combining a suede and a sheepskin sherpa. You then have very little to do. We cut the fabric 2 in 1 suede with sherpa and we just remove with our fingertips the cut sherpa fluff at the edge (we clean the hairs cut at the edge, so to speak). Then, nothing more to do; the edge will remain intact and does not even need to be folded. We leave the edges raw. We can also make buttonholes simply by making a slit with a seam ripper or with small embroidery scissors.

Sherpa-backed suede is a wonderful material because it allows for quick sewing and is easy to care for with a 30° machine wash.

Finishing materials that fray?

If just one of the two materials (the top or the bottom) frays, you will then need to carry out appropriate finishing work on the cut edges.

Step 1 - Shave the faux fur or sherpa 1 cm along the edges:

• With scissors, quite simply
• For edges at the level of future hems: shave twice the height of the hem (for example, for a final hem of 2 cm, shave the pile on the reverse side to a height of 4 cm)

Shaving the hair on the underside helps prevent excess hair.

Step 2 - Finish the edges:

• Option A: overcast then make a turn-in for a border or, overcast then make a seam between 2 pieces to be joined, and finally, open the seams with an iron.
• Option B: border the edges with a saddle bias.
• Option C : assemble a facing in a finer fabric at the edges.

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