How to successfully combine stripes and patterns in sewing?

Patterned fabrics, especially striped ones, can be difficult to work with when you don't have the right methods. In this video, discover our techniques and tips for creating striped or patterned garments without any mismatch. We'll explain all our tips for successfully matching patterns, especially stripes. Matching can be a bit of a challenge when making a garment, but with the right techniques, it'll be child's play! Beautiful matches give a very high-quality result to the creation, so it's worth spending a little time on it.

A complete guide to mastering pattern and stripe matching in sewing for beginners.

In the vast world of sewing, pattern matching and stripe matching can seem intimidating for beginners. But don't worry! With a little practice and patience, you can master this art perfectly. In this article, we'll explore in detail how to create pattern matches, focusing specifically on stripes, and how to apply them to garment sewing. Whether you're a beginner or simply looking to hone your skills, follow these tips for flawless matching.

What is a stitching match, and why match stripes?

Pattern matching, while not essential, adds a professional touch to your designs. They are often seen in high-end clothing and haute couture, providing a neat and aesthetically pleasing finish. It's the art of cutting your pattern pieces so that the patterns in your fabric don't break despite the stitching. They are most commonly found on the sides, front, and sleeves.

What are the different types of stripes?

Stripes can be woven, knitted, or printed onto the fabric, each requiring a slightly different approach.

For woven and knitted stripes, the straight grain will be parallel or perpendicular (depending on the direction of your stripes), you will not have any particular problems. For printed stripes, sometimes the stripes will be slightly offset from the straight grain. In this case, prefer to align your pattern with the stripes. The final result will be much more successful.

How to choose the right fabric for successful fittings?

Fabric selection can make pattern matching easier. Choose a quality fabric with good hold, as this will make aligning the stripes easier. Keep in mind that matching may require slightly more fabric, so make sure you have enough fabric for your project. The wider the stripes, the easier it will be to match the patterns. Keep this in mind, especially if this is your first patterned project! If the match is too complex, you can also consider cutting the fabric in the other direction or on the bias. Have fun with the direction of the stripes.

Where to make connections? Select the appropriate areas for the connections.

Not all seams are necessary, but it's crucial to choose the most visible areas to achieve a harmonious result. The areas to focus on are generally the front or back with an opening (button or zip), the side seams, the horizontal sleeve stripes aligned with those of the front bust, as well as the undersides of the sleeves and possibly the shoulders.

When it comes to sleeves, the underarm of the front and back should match the underarm marking of the sleeve. Be aware, however, that in a sleeve, the stripes will not connect everywhere along the entire armhole.

Techniques for pattern matching in sewing.

Step 1: Prepare and cut the fabric to have beautiful matches

Before you begin, wash and iron your fabric thoroughly; this will make it easier to achieve even and precise results. Place your fabric on a large, flat surface.

Jerseys often have a glued selvedge, which distorts the stripes on the edges of the fabric. We recommend cutting these strips to make it easier to position the fabric. Fold your fabric in half, right sides together, the width of your piece. Align the stripes, making sure they all match, then pin them, one pin per stripe. This is a bit time-consuming, but it's a crucial step that will make pinning the pattern easier.

Some fabrics may have turned slightly in the wash or rolled up, making it difficult to align the stripes. In this case, do not fold your fabric in half: your pieces will then be positioned off the fold and you will have more visibility on the placement of the stripes.

To make it easier to place the pattern, we recommend transferring it onto slightly transparent paper so you can see the stripes through it. Place your pattern, paying attention to the stripe seams. Make sure you place your pieces precisely, carefully aligning the patterns to achieve perfect seams. Use markings on the pattern to help align the pieces. You can trace them yourself by transferring them from the front to the back. The marking must be set at an equal distance on all the pieces so that the stripes match and to ensure a seam. Pin while always checking that the pieces remain aligned. This is the most important step that will ensure the final result. Don't hesitate to spend a little time on this step.

Cut out your pattern pieces using a rolling pin or scissors.

Special case: sewing stripes on the bias

When working with bias-cut or off-cut patterns, align the pattern at the seam line rather than the selvages for perfect seams.

Step 2: Sewing the joints

We recommend not overlocking the pieces before sewing to prevent the fabric from distorting. If possible, assemble and then overlock.

Carefully pin your pieces together, making sure the patterns stay aligned. To secure the seam if you're worried about the layers shifting, feel free to baste by hand.

We prefer to sew the stripes together with a sewing machine. This allows you to avoid removing the pins. If you sew gently, you can leave them in place when passing them under the presser foot.

Sewing stripes with an overlocker:

If using a serger, test the pinning on scraps of fabric beforehand to adjust the pinning, taking into account the possible slight shift due to a difference in the feed of the upper and lower fabric. If necessary, sew with the sewing machine first to stabilize the seams before moving on to the serger.

Our tips for sewing stripes:

By following these tips and techniques, you can master pattern matching, even as a novice seamstress. With practice, your matching will become increasingly neater, adding a professional touch to your creations. Don't be afraid to take on new sewing challenges and explore the endless possibilities of pattern matching in your projects.

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