How to apply pressure?

In this tutorial, I show you how to apply pressure serenely.

What is pressure?

An alternative to buttons (and buttonholes!), press studs are buttons in two or more often in four parts, very practical to use on a daily basis because they clip and unclip easily. We have a male end, with a small volume, and a female end, concave.

The different types of pressure 

First of all, there are different types of snaps: metal or plastic snaps. Both are very good, but the metallics remain classic in their form.

The choice of the type of pressure is made according to the fabrics that you have to assemble. Some are more suitable for warp and weft fabrics, and others are specially made for stretch materials like jersey. They are not designed in the same way: anorak or plastic snaps have a central rod, which requires pre-drilling the fabric, while jersey snaps have claws. These claws make it possible to distribute the tension, but do not tolerate thicknesses well. Those with rods make it possible to hold more layers, but they carry a risk of tearing because of the hole in the central rod. The secret to avoiding any problems is to choose the right pressure for your project and your fabric.

These pressures can be placed using the small tool that is generally supplied with, with a hammer or with pliers. It is also possible to sew it by hand.

Tips for applying pressure well

Interfacing before press studs

To have press studs that will hold up over time, start by interfacing your fabric on the reverse side with thin, flexible fusible interfacing. You can use a long strip along the button placket, or just cover the press stud with a small square of fusible fabric. 

If you forgot to stabilize, you can add a small square of stabilized fabric on the back, between your project fabric and the press stud. Once the snap is in place, all you have to do is cut around the snap, leaving a 2mm margin, for an almost invisible result. 

Properly position the pressures

There is a small rule to position your pressures correctly. Traditionally, the female pressure is placed above, and the male pressure below. On a closed button placket, it is thus the outer part of the female press studs that is visible. 

To properly place your two pressure parts opposite each other (little challenge!), here are some tips: 

• position the snaps and draw a mark with an erasable pen or tailor's chalk,
• position the pressures and make a temporary mark on the nail by pinching the location then make a mark in an erasable style or with chalk
• plant a needle or a pin in the heart of the location you have identified on the top, so as to see where it pricks the lower leg. It is then easy to make a small mark with a pen or chalk. 

Finally, if you have applied pressure incorrectly, know that there is always a way to undo it and start over. We open it with a punch for example, or not too sharp ends of scissors, trying to open it on the side.

Apply jersey press studs with a hammer or pliers

The jersey press studs are specific, thanks to their small claws which allow them to hold up well over time. There is no need to pre-drill the fabric. On the other hand, as it was specified at the beginning, it is necessary to cover the fabric well.

These pressures require specific tips, which are generally supplied with the pliers or even supplied with the pressures themselves. The two tips are similar, you just have to be careful to put the pressure parts in the right direction so as not to crush their volume. 

We position the two parts of the female pressure in the tips, then we will position our fabric between the two parts of the tool. We make sure that nothing has moved. Either we give a few blows to the hammer, or we squeeze the pliers. Then we start again with the male part of the pressure.

Apply Anorak snaps with a hammer or pliers

To put an Anorak pressure, you must however pre-drill its fabric on both sides. Then the two ends of the female part and the fabric are placed between the ends. This part is very delicate because the elements must not move during installation. Then we give a dry hammer blow well at 90° above the pressure or the pliers and you're done.

Apply plastic snaps to the snap pliers

This step obviously requires having pressure pliers but also the tips specific to the installation of plastic pressures. These tips are composed of a wide hollow tip plus a large silicone cylinder. Once your fabric is covered at the press stud locations, pierce the center with an awl. The tips are the same for the female part and the male part. Position your female pressure as follows: the outer part in the large hollow tip, the inner part against the silicone tip. Place your fabric without moving the tips, and press. Then you have to do the same with the male pressure.

Sewing invisible press studs by hand

Finally, there are invisible press studs, which are sewn by hand, always on fabric covered with fine fusible interfacing. I advise you to make several passages of wire in each outlet, and a triple knot at the end, to ensure the solidity of your work. Don't cut your thread after each take, rather slide it to the next take under pressure. It's a bit long and tedious, but it can be very practical when you don't have pliers or a hammer to hand, or simply want a discreet button placket.

Here are all our tips, it's up to you! And see you soon at ikatee.