How to install a clean strip?

What is a cleanliness strip?

A neckline binding or neckline bias is a strip of fabric placed on the neckline (most often on the back, sometimes all the way around) of a knitted garment (e.g., sweatshirt or t-shirt). It helps hide the visible overlock stitching and provides a clean, aesthetic finish. This technique can also be used on a non-stretch, woven project. This technique is less commonly used because woven garments are designed differently and do not necessarily require this finish.

NB: This technique can be used when sewing your new projects, but you can also easily resume your old ones. Practical, right?

What materials are needed to sew a clean strip?

To sew a clean strip, you will need:

• Fabric
• 1 pair of scissors
• 1 iron
• Pins
• 1 sewing machine
• Optional: 1 hand needle for hand slip stitch

How do I prepare my strip of fabric?

• Which fabric should you choose? Your choice depends entirely on the project you want to apply the stripe to. For a subtle and seamless look, use the same fabric as your garment. You can also choose a contrasting fabric for a touch of originality: let your creativity run wild!
• Dimensions:

- Width: This depends on the thickness of your fabric. For a fine knit, multiply the seam allowance by 3.5. For a thicker knit, multiply by 4.

Ex, for a jersey fabric with a 15 cm back neckline and a 7 mm wide seam:

- Length: if my back neckline measures 15 cm, I add 2 cm for seam allowances (1 cm on each side) and 2 cm more for safety. My neckband therefore measures 19 cm.
- Width: since jersey is a relatively fine mesh, I multiply the width of my seam by 3.5. I get 2.4 cm (7 mm x 3.5).

My cleanliness strip therefore measures: 19 cm in length and 2.4 cm in width.

How do I assemble my cleanliness strip?

• Iron a 1 cm turn-up on the left end of the strip.

• Place the right side of the back of the garment facing you, with the neckline band folded towards you.
• Make sure the seam allowance is facing up and not touching the back or neckband.
• Pin the strip, aligning the folded end with the right shoulder seam, selvages together, and continue to the other shoulder.
• It is important to stitch in the same place as the neckline seam (for a 7 mm seam allowance, I also stitch at 7 mm).

3. Sew:

• Sew with the edge band underneath the garment; the feed dogs of the presser foot will help feed the material and help the fabric move forward. This will help prevent creases.
• Be careful to stitch without stretching your fabric and stitch in stitch with the neckline seam.
• Once you get to the end of the back neckline, simply fold the end of the strip over so that it matches the shoulder seam.
• Cut off the excess seam, always leaving a 1 cm margin.
• Finish sewing to the shoulder seam.

4. Lay down and turn the strip:

• Reduce the seam allowance to 4 mm, and notch every centimeter.
• Take your iron to flatten and turn the strip.
• Fold the seam allowance in half using your iron. Fold it over to the wrong side of the garment, tucking the folded part under the 4 mm seam allowance.
• Once the strip is turned over, you can pin all along it.

How to attach the cleanliness strip?

There are two possibilities depending on the desired result.

- The first method: visible seam

Stitch 1 mm from the folded edge of the strip. Use the folded edge as a guide by placing it in the center of the presser foot and shifting the needle 2 notches for even topstitching.

- The second method: the slipped stitch

More complicated than the first, this method allows you to create an invisible seam. Slip stitch by hand for an invisible finish. Make sure the stitches are loose enough to prevent the seam from tearing. If you're not yet familiar with this technique, we suggest watching our " Slip Stitching " tutorial.

Now you can install cleanliness strips, enough to embellish all your future projects!

I still have questions!

If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact us directly by email at contact@ikatee.fr , where our team will be happy to answer all your questions! We welcome your comments, feedback, and ideas!

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