How to sew a label?

The different types of labels

A label is a small woven label featuring a design and/or text. Often used in ready-to-wear clothing, they have made a splash in the world of sewing and DIY, becoming a customization item that we proudly display. There are two types of labels, which are not attached at the same time and in the same place. 

• The "patch" labels that we will affix to the garment. At Ikatee, they are pre-folded for a nice finish. They can be positioned wherever you want: inside or outside the garment, on a pocket, on the front or back of your project. 

• Labels folded in half, designed to be caught in a "flag" seam. They are placed on the back of a garment, caught in a bias, a seam, a pocket or a facing. 

When to sew a label? 

Depending on the location, the sewing is not done at the same time. For a label to be attached to the back of a garment or the bottom of a t-shirt, for example, this can be done at the end of the project.  which allows you to do rendering tests and refine the position of the label. On the other hand, for a label to be fixed on a pocket with topstitching or even in a seam, you will have to anticipate... otherwise you will have to use the seam ripper! This will also be essential for folded labels which are necessarily to be taken in a seam, therefore to be positioned upstream.

Choosing the right thread

Ideally, choose a thread color that matches the background of the label; this will make the stitching more discreet. However, you can also choose a contrasting thread: the stitching will be visible and become a graphic element in its own right. 

Also think about your bobbin thread: if the stitching is visible on the other side, take a thread that matches the color of your fabric. 

Place the label correctly

There are two schools of thought: the meticulous and the intuitive. If you're of the first school, then fold your fabric in half edge to edge and place a pin to mark the middle. Do the same with the label, marking the fold well. You can then align the two marks. If you're more intuitive, then trust your eye; it'll probably be just fine!

Sew a patch label

Once the label is in place, you'll need to find a way to hold it in place for sewing. At Ikatee, we don't like pinning it because it creates extra thickness. The label may move when sewing. The easiest way is to place the label and hold it firmly until your sewing machine's presser foot is lowered. Otherwise, there's also a little magic trick: temporary glue. This glue temporarily fixes the elements but will come off after the first wash: magic! Once the label is fixed with temporary glue, all you have to do is sew it on.

The label is usually sewn from a bottom corner, which will make your backstitch less visible. We recommend shifting your needle slightly to the left, then aligning the edge of the label with the center mark on the presser foot and manually turning the handwheel to be more precise, at least at the start. To manage corners, which is not always easy, turn the machine's handwheel so that your needle almost touches the label. Lift your presser foot very slightly and place your needle as close as possible to the next edge. Insert the needle into the label, turn your work, and start again on the next side. Don't forget to do another backstitch on the last side (see video).

Sew a folded label caught in the seam

For labels caught in the seam, the principle is a little different. You will build your label before assembling the fabric. Choose your location and pin your label along the fabric edge, right sides together. Again, temporary glue works great to hold your label in place while you assemble it. You will then sew your label by stitching in the seam allowance.

Once this is done, you can assemble your two pieces of fabric by following the assembly instructions on your pattern, your label will protrude from this seam and that's it!

Sew a round label

At Ikatee we offer you a round label. The principle is the same: choose the position of your label, hold it in place with temporary glue or by holding it. Place it under your presser foot and lower it. This is where it gets complicated! 

Sewing in the round isn't easy. We recommend sewing your label by turning the handwheel of your sewing machine by hand. Start at the bottom; it'll be more discreet. Make your first stitch and leave your needle in your work. Raise the presser foot and turn your fabric slightly. 

You will then repeat the operation all around the label, keeping the same rotation. To have a nice finish, you can pull your threads to the back using your seam ripper. This will save you the tedious step of backstitching while following a curve. 

There are plenty of other ways to do it, we trust your imagination: sewn on two sides, by hand, with crosses in the four corners. Anything is possible, and now that you know everything, it's up to you to get started!

Even more technical tutorials

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