How to attach snap fasteners?

In this tutorial, I show you how to calmly attach snap fasteners.

What is a snap fastener?

An alternative to buttons (and buttonholes!), snap fasteners are buttons made of two or, more often, four parts, very practical for everyday use because they clip on and off easily. There is a male part, with a small volume, and a female part, concave.

The different types of snap fasteners 

First of all, there are different types of snap fasteners: metal or plastic. Both are very good, but metal ones remain classic in their shape.

The choice of snap fastener type depends on the fabrics you need to join. Some are better suited for woven fabrics, and others are specially made for stretch materials like jersey. They are not designed the same way: anorak or plastic snap fasteners have a central stem, which requires pre-piercing the fabric, while jersey snap fasteners have claws. These claws help distribute tension but do not tolerate thickness well. Those with stems can hold more layers but carry a risk of tearing due to the hole made by the central stem. The secret to avoiding any problems is to choose the snap fastener suited to your project and fabric.

These snap fasteners can be attached using the small tool usually provided, with a hammer, or with pliers. It is also possible to sew them by hand.

Tips for properly attaching snap fasteners

Interfacing before attaching snap fasteners

To have snap fasteners that will last over time, start by interfacing your fabric on the wrong side with a thin, flexible fusible interfacing. You can use a long strip along the button placket, or interface only the spot of a snap fastener with a small square of fusible fabric. 

If you forgot to interface, you can add a small square of interfaced fabric on the wrong side, between your project fabric and the snap fastener. Once the snap fastener is attached, just cut around it leaving a 2mm margin for an almost invisible result. 

Properly positioning snap fasteners

There is a small rule for properly positioning snap fasteners. Traditionally, the female snap is placed on top, and the male snap below. On a closed button placket, the outer part of the female snap is thus visible. 

To correctly align the two parts of the snap fasteners (a little challenge!), here are some tips: 

• position the snap fasteners and mark with a washable pen or tailor’s chalk,
• position the snap fasteners and make a temporary mark with your fingernail by pinching the spot, then mark with a washable pen or chalk,
• insert a needle or pin at the center of the spot you identified on the top, so you can see where it pierces the placket underneath. Then it’s easy to make a small mark with a pen or chalk. 

Finally, if you attach a snap fastener incorrectly, know that you can always remove it and try again. You can open it with a punch, for example, or with the blunt tips of scissors, trying to open it from the side.

Attaching jersey snap fasteners with a hammer or pliers

Jersey snap fasteners are specific, thanks to their small claws that allow them to hold well over time. It is not necessary to pre-pierce the fabric. However, as mentioned at the beginning, you must properly interface the fabric.

These snap fasteners require specific attachments, usually provided with the pliers or even with the snap fasteners themselves. The two attachments are similar; just be careful to place the snap parts in the correct direction so as not to crush their volume. 

Position the two parts of the female snap in the attachments, then place your fabric between the two parts of the tool. Make sure nothing has shifted. Either tap a few times with the hammer or squeeze the pliers. Then repeat with the male part of the snap fastener.

Attaching Anorak snap fasteners with a hammer or pliers

To attach an Anorak snap fastener, you must pre-pierce your fabric on both sides. Then place the two attachments of the female part and the fabric between them. This step is very delicate because the parts must not move during assembly. Then give a sharp hammer blow at 90° above the snap or pliers, and you’re done.

Attaching plastic snap fasteners with snap pliers

This step obviously requires snap pliers but also the specific attachments for plastic snap fasteners. These attachments consist of a wide hollow attachment plus a large silicone cylinder. Once your fabric is interfaced at the snap fastener spots, pierce the center with a punch. The attachments are the same for the female and male parts. Position your female snap as follows: the outer part in the large hollow attachment, the inner part against the silicone attachment. Place your fabric without moving the attachments, and press. Then do the same with the male snap fastener.

Sewing invisible snap fasteners by hand

Finally, there are invisible snap fasteners, which you sew by hand, always on fabric interfaced with thin fusible interfacing. I recommend making several thread passes in each part and a triple knot at the end to ensure the strength of your work. Do not cut your thread after each pass; instead, slide it to the next pass by going under the snap fastener. It’s a bit long and tedious, but it can be very practical when you don’t have pliers or a hammer at hand, or simply when you want a discreet button placket.

Here are all our tips, now it’s your turn! See you soon at ikatee.