Video Tutorial - How to Sew a Bias Binding

How to apply bias tape in sewing: easy step-by-step tutorial

Follow all the steps in the video to fully understand the techniques.

What is bias tape in sewing?

Bias tape is a strip of fabric cut on the diagonal, at 45 degrees to the grainline. This cut allows it to be slightly stretchy and to follow curves without puckering.

Bias tape is used for:

• finish a fabric edge
• reinforce a seam
• or add a decorative finish

How to apply bias tape step by step

There are several ways to apply bias tape depending on the desired result. In this video tutorial, we present three methods to apply bias tape in a straight line:

• a quick finish with 1 stitch that we present in video, but we recommend cleaner methods with prettier finishes.
• a more precise finish with 2 stitches.
• an invisible finish for a very neat result.

Below you will find the last two techniques in diagram form. 

Applying bias tape with 2 stitches (classic technique)

Step 1: place the right side of the unfolded bias tape against the wrong side of the fabric and align the edges. Stitch in the first fold of the bias tape.

Step 2: in case of curves and rounded edges, stretch the bias tape slightly so that it fits the edge by pulling gently on it.

Step 3: reduce the seam allowance of the fabric only (not the bias tape), so that it is just slightly smaller than the bias tape.

Step 4: fold the bias tape towards the right side of the fabric and press. The bias tape should exactly cover the previous stitch. Stitch 1 mm from the edge of the bias tape.

Applying bias tape with an invisible finish

This technique allows for a very discreet finish.

Step 1: place the right side of the unfolded bias tape against the right side of the fabric and align the edges. Stitch in the first fold of the bias tape.

Step 2: in case of curves and rounded edges, stretch the bias tape slightly so that it fits the edge by pulling gently on it.

Step 3: reduce the seam allowance of the fabric only (not the bias tape), so that it is just slightly smaller than the bias tape.

Step 4: fold the bias tape towards the wrong side of the fabric and press. The bias tape should be positioned just beyond the previous stitch, pin it. Stitch on the right side of the fabric in the groove of the previous stitch. The stitch must be exactly in the fold of the bias tape.

The bias tape has been stitched on the wrong side and on the right side the stitch is barely visible, hidden in the groove of the bias tape.

Now that you have mastered applying bias tape in a straight line, let's discover how to adapt it to curves and angles.

How to apply bias tape on a curve? (neckline, armhole)

Bias tape is especially suited for rounded shapes like a neckline or an armhole.

Because it is cut on the bias of the fabric, it can stretch slightly and naturally adapt to curves.

Be careful not to pull too hard on the bias tape: it might pucker or ripple once in place. The idea is simply to guide it along the curve.

To start, place the bias tape right side against the wrong side of the fabric. You can gently stretch the bias tape to help it follow the curve without distorting it. Pin carefully, distributing the pins evenly to hold it in place smoothly. Sew in the fold of the bias tape, moving slowly to gradually remove the pins.

Then slightly trim the seam allowance (about 1 mm), and optionally clip to ease folding and allow the bias tape to perfectly follow the curve.

Then fold the bias tape onto the right side of the fabric, aligning its edge with the first stitching. Pin carefully before making an edge stitch about 1 mm from the edge. Our tip: press your work for a perfect finish.

How to apply bias tape in a corner?

As shown in the video, applying bias tape in a corner requires a bit more precision but follows the same principle as on a straight line.

Start by positioning the bias tape right side against the wrong side of the fabric on the first side of the corner, then stitch in the fold stopping at your seam allowance. Remember to backstitch to secure the seam.

The corner is formed by folding the bias tape. First fold it upward along the edge, then fold it down aligning with the next side of the fabric. These two folds create the corner.

Then stitch the bias tape on the second side, still in the fold, starting at the seam allowance.

Before turning the bias tape, you can slightly trim the seam allowance to make shaping easier, without cutting into the corner.

Then fold the bias tape onto the right side of the fabric. As you can see in the tutorial, take the time to shape the diagonal corner well: this small fold, called a tab, is essential for a clean and even finish.

Hold in place with pins, then finish with an edge stitch along the bias tape.

The result is neat, the corner well shaped, and the bias tape perfectly secured.

Now that you have mastered applying bias tape in any situation, let's discover a key step for flawless finishes: joining bias tape.

How to join bias tape? With simple and discreet techniques

When you apply bias tape to a closed piece (neckline, armhole…), it is necessary to join the two ends to achieve a clean finish.

As illustrated in the diagrams below, there are two techniques depending on the desired result:

• a simple method, quick to do
• a more discreet method, with an almost invisible finish

Method 1: joining bias tape - Simple technique 

Step 1: press a 1 cm fold at the first end of the bias tape.

Step 2: stitch in the first fold of the bias tape according to the chosen technique. The first end is stitched with the fold made. The second end without a fold overlaps on top by 1.5 cm.

Step 3: fold the two ends of the bias tape together along the pre-formed folds. Fold the bias tape to the other side and stitch according to the chosen technique. The bias join is therefore perpendicular and no selvage is visible.

Method 2: joining bias tape - Discreet technique

Step 1: stitch in the first fold of the bias tape according to the chosen technique, leaving a length of bias tape at the start and end of the stitching. It is important to stop precisely at the starting point, without sewing through both layers at the same time.

Step 2: open the bias tape and place the two ends right sides together, positioning them perpendicularly. Stitch along the diagonal thus formed, from the backstitch of the previous seam to the end of the bias tape intersection.

Step 3: reduce the seam allowances of the bias tape and press the seam open.

Step 4: fold the bias tape to the other side and stitch according to the chosen technique. The bias join is therefore diagonal and very discreet.

You now know all the essential techniques for applying bias tape: in a straight line, on a curve, at a corner, and even to make a neat join.

With a little practice, these movements quickly become natural and will allow you to achieve clean and durable finishes on all your sewing projects.

Bias tape is a technique that seems simple but makes all the difference in the quality of a garment.

If you want to go even further with the bias technique, check out our tutorial how to make a bias tape. Looking for more sewing tips? discover all our sewing tutorials.