To make flat-felled seams

How to create beautiful flat-felled seams

In this video, we'll give you all our tips for creating a perfect flat-felled seam. This type of seam allows you to achieve a clean and strong finish, with enclosed selvedges and double stitching. It's most commonly found on sturdy and durable garments, such as jackets or jeans. It can also be very useful for making reversible pieces because no selvedges are visible.

1. Why use a flat-felled seam?

A solid and durable finish

Flat-felled seams are particularly strong. They are ideal for garments subject to stress, such as trousers, shirts, jackets, or children's clothing. Discover our Ikatee sewing patterns

A clean seam, without overlocking

This finish encloses the fabric edges and prevents fraying, without the need for an overlock machine. The interior finish is neat and tidy.

An aesthetically pleasing finish, both inside and out.

Flat-felled seams give a professional look to the garment, with a visible and regular seam that can also become a decorative detail.

2. On which projects should the flat-felled seam be used?

Flat-felled seams on clothing

Flat-felled seams are particularly well-suited to everyday clothing, especially when a strong and durable finish is desired. They work very well on shirts, shirt dresses, trousers, or jackets, on side, shoulder, or crotch seams. Find our women's sewing patterns here.

This finish is ideal for items such as shirts, trousers or certain Ikatee dresses, where durability and cleanliness inside are essential.

Flat-felled seams for children's and baby clothes

Perfect for ensuring durability and comfort, flat-felled seams are particularly recommended for children's and baby clothing. They eliminate raw edges and guarantee a soft interior, free from irritating seams.

This is a finish perfectly suited to Ikatee children's and baby patterns, especially for trousers, overalls or tops worn on a daily basis.

Flat-felled seams for accessories and utility sewing

Flat-felled seams are also suitable for bags, pouches, aprons, or any project requiring a robust and durable finish. Our new Ikatee home pattern range is perfectly suited for this.

3. What materials are needed to make a flat-felled seam?

Essential equipment:

A sewing machine: A standard sewing machine is all you need for flat-felled seams. You don't need an overlocker, making this finish accessible to everyone. The key is to be able to adjust the stitch length correctly to achieve a consistent and strong seam.

A needle suited to the fabric: Choosing the right needle is essential for a neat result. Use a universal needle for cottons and poplins, or a finer needle (such as a microtex needle) for lightweight fabrics. A well-suited needle prevents uneven stitches and damaged fabrics. Discover our universal and microtex needles.

A quality thread, matching the fabric color: Choose a strong, high-quality thread that matches the fabric color. A durable thread ensures long-lasting stitching, especially in high-stress areas like the sides or crotch. At Ikatee, we particularly like Mettler threads.

A ruler or sewing template: Flat-felled seams require precise markings. A ruler allows you to measure and draw regular seam allowances, essential for achieving a straight and symmetrical seam throughout the assembly.

Sharp scissors or a rotary cutter : A clean cut is essential for a successful flat-felled seam. Sharp tools ensure clean edges that are easy to fold and hold in place throughout the various stages.

Fine pins or sewing clips: These allow you to hold fabric folds in place without distorting them. Clips are particularly useful on thick or delicate fabrics.

An iron: Ironing is a key step in flat-felled seams. It flattens the seam allowances, creases the folds, and creates a smooth, flat finish. Ironing at each stage is essential for a consistent and professional result.

Ikatee tip: how to successfully sew flat-felled seams

Take the time to press and check the alignment of your seam before each stitch. A successful flat-felled seam depends as much on the precision of the pressing as on the stitching itself.

Flat-felled seams: an essential sewing finish

Flat-felled seams are an essential finishing technique for strong, durable, and neat creations. It's an accessible technique that instantly gives your sewing projects a professional look.

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