Tutorial - Sewing a piping

What is piping, and what is it used for?

Piping is a small cord covered with bias tape or decorative ribbon. It is a finishing element, decorative and used for accessories, clothing, or upholstery. Piping is used to create pretty edges or to decorate the junction of two fabric pieces. The ribbon is cut on the bias, which makes it more elastic and therefore better able to adapt to the shape of the fabric it is applied to.

Piping is inserted between two pieces of fabric and can be plain or patterned. It can be sewn in different materials. We recommend choosing piping made from the same material or a material that matches your project. Generally, poplin piping adapts to most fabrics. There are also piping options in viscose, satin (perfect for pajamas), or even lurex. You can create your own piping or buy ready-made piping at a haberdashery.

To sew piping, you will need:

• Piping
• Fabric
• A zipper foot*
• A needle suitable for the fabric
• Thread
• Pins
• A pair of scissors

Note: There are zipper feet designed specifically for piping. They have a notch to slip the piping cord inside, making sewing easier. They are useful but not necessary. You can also sew your piping with an invisible zipper foot.

How do I choose the right piping for my project?

This decision is up to you; there is no right or wrong answer. The criteria to consider relate to the aesthetics of your project. Specifically, when looking to use piping, you should consider its thickness, material, and color.

Can I make my own piping?

Yes, it’s not very complicated! To do this, you will need bias tape, matching thread, a cord of the desired thickness, and a zipper foot or invisible zipper foot.
For the bias tape, you can easily make it yourself from your fabric.

• Unfold the bias tape: open the bias tape by unfolding the edges, place the cord inside and centered. Place the ends of the bias tape edge to edge and pin along the length.

• Prepare your sewing machine: replace your presser foot with the zipper foot.

• Position your elements: place your bias tape and move your needle so it is as close to the cord as possible.

• Sew: sew as usual with a straight stitch from one edge to the other, remembering to backstitch.

How do I sew piping?

• Prepare your first fabric: place the piping on the right side of the first fabric with the cord facing inward and pin everything. The edge of the bias tape surrounding the piping should be placed on the fabric’s selvage. Don’t forget to consider your seam allowances: your pattern’s allowance is not necessarily the same as your piping’s.

Example: If my pattern includes a 1 cm seam allowance and my piping’s allowance is 0.5 cm, I need to shift my piping 0.5 cm inward on my fabric. The piping cord should therefore be 1 cm from the edge, at the final seam line.

• Sew: take your time to ensure your stitching stays straight; uneven seams will be noticeable. Sew as close to the cord as possible with a straight stitch.

• Prepare your second fabric: position your second fabric right sides together with the first, sandwiching the piping, and pin.

• Sew: repeat! Stitch over the previous seam for a better finish. Be careful to sew as close to the cord as possible and take your time.

• Press: good pressing will give a much cleaner finish.

How do I sew piping on a curve?

Since piping is cut on the bias, it should be flexible enough to follow your curve without needing to be notched. If that’s not the case, simply make a notch every 1 to 2 cm.

For sewing without notches, the technique remains the same. For sewing with notches, use the technique for sewing piping around a corner.

How do I sew piping around a corner?

When sewing piping around a corner, it’s important to take your time. This is a delicate step that will make all the difference if done well.

• Pin your piping: pin it edge to edge on both sides of the corner. You will notice your piping lifts at the corner. If you sew directly over it, you will create folds during sewing. To avoid this, notch your piping at the corner. Once notched, it will adapt to the corner much more easily and you can pin it flat more easily. Finish pinning your piping.

• Sew: with your zipper foot, sew up to the corner, stitching as close to the cord as possible before slowing down and guiding your work around the corner. Take your time; you can sew stitch by stitch using your machine’s handwheel. This step is crucial for the quality of your finish. Once past the corner, continue sewing to the other end. Don’t forget to backstitch!

• Notch the excess: notch the excess fabric at the corner behind your seam so it will be less bulky once the piece is assembled.

How do I join piping?

To join piping, start by leaving a small section of piping unsewn.

• Expose the cord: unpick the seam of your piping for a few centimeters to make the cord visible. Unpick until the two sewn ends meet perfectly without overlap. For a better finish, you can cut the excess cord and excess piping on the opposite side at the same time to ensure they align perfectly (see video).

• Wrap the piping: now cover the sewn end of the piping with the unsewn end. For a clean finish, remember to fold a hem on the piping end that will be on the outside. Take your time to position the cords and fabric hem well; this is important and will make all the difference.

• Pin and sew: just pin everything and sew following your previous seam. You can also baste your seam for better hold.

And there you go, all done! You’ve just created beautiful finishes perfect for all your future projects!

I still have questions:

If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to contact us directly by email at contact@ikatee.fr where our team will be happy to answer all your inquiries! We are interested in your comments, feedback, and ideas.